1. Changing Water - Draining intervals for Hot Tub Spas
Most spa owners change their hot tub’s water every 2 to 4 months. This is primarily because over time, salt from perspiration and other non-organic contaminants—the Total Dissolved Solids or TDS, will increase to levels causing cloudiness or other problems. Knowing when to drain and refill is important.
Although organics are destroyed by sanitiser systems, TDS levels continue to increase over time. But how do you really know when it’s time for draining? Maintaining spa water balance & sanitiser, along with proper filtration will maximize the time between water changes. It’s time to change the water when the TDS level reads between 1000 – 1500 PPM. These levels can be checked by the Professional pool & spa chemical retailers.
2. Cloudy Water in Spas
Understanding what causes cloudy water and how to prevent and clear the problem
Cloudy spas are arguably the most common problem in Spa maintenance. Spas can be perfectly clear one day and cloudy the next and this becomes a spiralling problem if not addressed correctly.
As with anything in life that isn’t going to plan, it is necessary to follow a checklist to determine the cause and then treat the cause and not the symptoms.
3. How to convert a Spa from Chlorine or Bromine to Poppits?
When a spa owner decides to make the change from chlorine or bromine to Spa Fresh Sanitiser it is important to follow a prescribed process.
People decide to change sanitising systems for a number of reasons.
• Asthmatic’s looking for a healthier system that provides a sensitive choice.
• When one of the bathers develops a reaction to the chlorine/bromine.
• When the chlorine smell becomes unbearable.
• When concerned about the environment.
It is relatively easy to convert the spa or pool to a system completely free of chlorine/bromine, which has no odours, is easy to control and maintain and is sympathetic to the environment.
4. How to deal with the foam in the Spa?
The presence of foam in the spa is not only a deterrent to bather comfort; it also indicates underlying concerns in the maintenance of the spa which could compromise bather health.
Products that don’t belong in the spa/hot tub are the number one cause of foam. Keeping certain things out of the spa will often eliminate or reduce foaming.
- Dropping food or drinks into the water is a potential foam producer.
- To keep hair gels, mousse, shampoo and hairspray from entering the water, keep long hair out of the spa by tying it back.
- Body lotions are a leading cause of foaming, leave moisturizing until after using the spa, rather than before.
- Washing your swimsuit more often, but without soap will assist.
- Surprisingly, the very chemicals you use to keep the spa clean maybe adding the foam. Cheap chemicals or excessive amounts of chemicals both can cause foam.
- Products that are of a different brand and perhaps incompatible with Poppit Spa Sanitiser are often the cause.
- Only use Poppit brand products for best results
- Water that is incorrectly balanced will heighten the risk of foaming in the spa.
- Finally, water that is either ‘past its use by’ in terms of being ready to replace and, water that is poorly sanitised may foam more readily.
5. How does Poppits Sanitiser work?
An explanation of the mode of action for hydrogen peroxide in Spa & Spa Pool water.
Since chlorine is and has been the standard sanitiser for pool & spa water, and some people do not associate hydrogen peroxide as a sanitiser, it may be useful to understand the mode of action of Hydrogen peroxide.
6. How long does Poppit Spa Sanitiser last in Spas & Hot Tubs?
All Sanitisers diminish in strength – even when no one is using the spa. This Bulletin looks at the question of how fast and how much.
Sanitisers (chlorine and Poppits) steadily reduce in water. They are affected by heat, dust, bacteria, algae, phosphates, time and of course body fats and oils and other organic matter and waste.
Chlorine diminishes rapidly and requires daily dosing. Poppit Spa Sanitiser diminishes in a predictable amount per 24 hour period which makes the use of an automatic doser very practical.
8. How to deal with phosphates?
Once a phenomena of the Northern Hemisphere, phosphates are currently Australia biggest issue. This Bulletin looks at how to handle the latest enemy of Pool & Spa Owners.
Phosphates are a natural result of pollution. They are airborne and are transferred into pool & spa water carried by wind, leaves, dust, on bathers and through grass and other matter carried in/on feet or in the water source (particularly tank water).
Phosphate is the favourite food source for algae. Algae enjoy warmth, moisture and a staple diet of phosphate.
9. Poppit Start-Up and Maintenance Cards?
Simple 3 step card available from your nearest stockists.
10. Terms and Definitions
pH – The measure of acidity or alkaline levels in your swimming pool water. Adding too much acid causes the pH to drop and become acidic. Acidic pool water (pH less than 7) is corrosive and can damage pool surfaces and metal fixtures and also cause stinging eyes and skin irritations. Water with a high pH (above 7.8) can cause scale to form on pool surfaces and create cloudy water, dry skin and eye discomfort.
Total Alkalinity (TA)– The measure of the dissolved alkaline level in your swimming pool water. The TA measures the resistance of the pool water to changes in pH. For example, if the Total Alkalinity is low then the addition of acid can lower the pH sharply and damage the pool surface and equipment. The higher the TA, the less pH fluctuates.
Calcium Hardness – The amount of calcium in the swimming pool water. This is used to protect pool surfaces in soft water areas.
Stabilizer – This is used as a UV protection to hold chlorine levels in pool water for longer periods of time. Acting similarly as a sunscreen for your pool water.
Shock Dosing – This is recommended to be done as it will oxidise (burn off) and chemically break up any contaminants in pool water.
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) – The measure of total dissolved solids in pool water. TDS can be made up of salts, minerals, metals and any unfiltered oxidised material.
Pools installed with an ionic sterilizer require a lower TDS level (<800ppm). On the other hand salt chlorinated pools run on a much higher level (3000 –6000ppm). Check with your preferred pool or spa supplier to determine the correct level for your pool.
Sanitizers – These are critical to controlling harmful bacteria in swimming and spa pools. Use only registered sanitizers/bactericides and always at prescribed levels to protect your pool and those who bath in it.
Algicide – This is used to kill, control and prevent algae forming in pool water.